Friday 9 September 2022

Bringing the beige

My mother is from New Zealand, my father is Samoan. My brother is brown like my father, I have freckles like my mother. My brother carries tau lima both traditional and western. I have none. As children, I had the red curled cap of a recessive English-Stowers gene, while my brother’s hair was straight, black silk like our Saina-Samoan aiga.

Before I was 5 years old, we had lived in New Zealand, Australia and Papua New Guinea- where cocoa-coloured children found my red hair an oddity, and trailed me in giggling packs to touch it.

In Australian schools, my classmates and their parents were Thursday Islanders, Fijians, Maltese, Italian, Czech, English, Papuans, Aboriginal. Voluntary and involuntary Australians, descendents of the land, blackbirders and blackbirds, colonisers and colonised, deportees, and refugees.

My family was unusual in our mobility- my father’s 4th nation at age 25, and my mother’s 3rd- but in many ways, we illustrated stereotypes not just of our town, but the towns we came from. Pick a statistic- teen pregnancy, infant mortality, alcohol, violence; or choose a privilege- good jobs and a dual income, free healthcare, quality education, access to finance and social mobility.

Of my father’s 7 siblings, 3 sisters would marry Maori men, and one a Samoan. His brothers married palagi women of Dutch, English and Spanish/Maori descent. My mother’s siblings married palagi and Maori too.

My twenty-three first cousins on both sides courted people of the Pacific – some of them married, and some married again. Their children are like sand now, countless grains coloured from quartz to obsidian, sparkling and intermingled.

When I first married, my wife was part palagi, part Maori, and her children (by coincidence) were red haired and freckled like I had been. They grew up fair skinned in brown South Auckland, amid the largest Polynesian and Maori populations in the country, and on the planet at the time – with growing communities from Asia and Africa.

I went to live in Samoa, the birthplace of my father for a short time, and I was not even considered afa-kasi (half-caste). I recognized, as others did, that I was a visitor.

I met a new partner, who had grown up in Tokelau and Samoa, a palagi raised in her early years in villages and on beaches where her skin was an exception.

The world is small, and people are many. In all nations, even those of the ocean, visitors have always come and gone, have loved, have stayed or left. 

There is an obligation upon a visitor to recognize their position and their host; and an obligation upon all to recognize that when someone stays in a place they cannot forever be a visitor; as attachments form there are responsibilities which ensue. 

It is important that cultures be retained, that stories are told, that languages and arts are shared so that they may be preserved - but culture, like land is weathered and reshaped by time and by people.

There is a tendency for people to seek to root their identity in a distinct ethnicity and culture. To anchor themselves, in a story and a place and people.

However, in this present, there is sometimes also an unrealistic, and uncharitable individuality expressed not as 'I am this' or 'my place is here'- but extended to ‘I am this, and you are that’, or ‘this is my story and it cannot be your story’. 

Such declarations are definition of oneself by exclusion, and often require the recognition of one ancestry, and a denial of others. 

We can recognize the past without repeating it, without denying that it is interwoven and that we are each different products of it all. A person can be descended (in fact is likely to be descended) from more than one side of any historical argument. 

To exclude me from your story or you from mine, is to separate our shores in the present, while neglecting the ocean between us.

My identity, and particularly my cultural and ethnic identity, is affected by those around me, but not reliant upon them. Like knowledge, or wisdom, my identity is not fixed, although it has roots. It ebbs and flows with time and exposure, it changes when I listen and when I speak to people, when I find stories and when I retell them, when I discover places and when I leave them. It is not dependent on the melanin in my skin or hair or eyes, but it does react to sun and rain and wind. It is hereditary, but it does not belong to those who came before me. It can be left or shared, but not taken,  by those around me.

My skin is creamy where it is covered, and mottled brown where it is not- the freckles move, sometimes they join. 

When I look at my family trees, I do not see lines- I see nets, woven strands that extend in several directions, crossing and recrossing- and they have snagged too many types of ancestor to count. Fish may school, but nets do not discriminate - for the ocean is large, and fish abound.

Birds cross great oceans, responding to the sun and the season. Coconuts float to follow the currents, and they take root where they land.

To see your heart, I must look past your skin;  to know your mind, I must listen to your voice; and to judge your intent I should observe your actions.

Sunday 24 April 2022

Nui Dat to Bridge Road

Dick is my mate Turtle's dad- or was, I'm not sure if he's still around.

I watched a movie last night about Australians in Vietnam, and it reminded me of being at Turtle's house when I was young. By that time Dick was single, divorced I think - raising Turtle and his elder sister Lara. Their house was a Mackay-special, two-story Queenslander of the type with weatherboards upstairs, and downstairs a concrete floored garage which had been walled in to accommodate a bar and a car- it was on Bridge Road opposite the end of our street, and a stone throw from the junior rugby league grounds. 

The house was clean, tidy and quiet. Upstairs was cool in the daytime, and the kitchen and living room were comfortably and simply furnished. The kids rooms were self-decorated, light and colourful by contrast. Nothing upstairs was out of place. The backyard was fenced, and the lawns front and back were always cut tidily, although I don't think I ever saw them being mowed- they just were.  

Dick had a record collection, I remember playing Bob Seger and the Silver Bullet Band. Near the record player there was military memorabilia in glass-fronted, faux-timber, china cabinets. I don't remember what exactly- maybe it included a picture of Dick in fatigues. According to Turtle, Dick was in Vietnam and was a member of the RAR, the Royal Australian Regiment. 

Dick was tall, and thin, and weathered - old to me, although he would have been my age now, between 40 and 50. He wore eye-glasses with smoke coloured lenses, not quite sunglasses inside and outside regardless of the light. Dick came to watch us play football and drank beer quietly. He spoke gently, definitively and rarely to adults and children alike. He may have been an alcoholic- but if drinking every day was that measure, so were most of the adults I knew. He came to football to watch us until Turtle stopped playing about the same time he started surfing, in high school. 

I went looking for Dick's service history last night for no other reason than I remembered him. I think I liked and respected him.

I found these photos posted by Dick, in the table on this page, there are 3 sets next to his name- almost 150 photos taken on operation: 9 RAR Association | Queensland Australia (9rarqld.org) 

They're not the kind of photos you might find from a passive deployment. 1968 was the deadliest year for the US allies in Vietnam, and it's when Dick and 9RAR arrived.
"Over the 12 months 9RAR took part in 11 major operations, each lasting roughly a month. These operations focused on pacification and reconnaissance, and aimed to isolate Viet Cong from the local population."  
9RAR is listed as having had 35 unit casualties, another 150 men were wounded.
One of Dick's last 'Nui Dat' pictures is the operations board for 9RAR- listing December '68 to November '69. Thirteen operations are listed- a couple more than the official record.

Dick's photos show the camp bar, skinny young men in greens holding beer. South Vietnamese crouching in tiger fatigues. Timber bunkers in the jungle. White men swimming on a beach. Aircraft- Chinooks, Hueys, a Caribou. Armoured personnel carriers and tanks, artillery. Pink and blue smoke grenades puffing in a clearing. Buffalo and wagons. A pretty young woman, in a white dress and a bamboo bonnet on a village street, the tip of the photographer's GP boot resting in the foreground on the edge of an armoured vehicle.

In Vietnam, 516 Australian soldiers died in these ways (official casualties are 521):
274 in battle
102 by mine
46 accidentally
44 'medical'
39 by friendly fire
11 murdered

300,0000 South Vietnamese died; and an estimated 1,100,000 North Vietnamese. (Roughly 2700 Vietnamese died for each Australian soldier killed.)

This interview with Dick was conducted on Anzac day 5 years ago. Dick was drinking at Harrup Park, the cricket club a block from the houses where we used to live: People don’t fight for their countries, they fight for their mates | The Courier Mail

Dick volunteered to for the army, although many did not. He would have been 24 years old, making him 4 years older than the average Australian soldier in Vietnam.

"From 1965 to 1972, over 15,300 national servicemen served in the Vietnam War, with 200 killed and 1,279 wounded."  Those 15,300 men conscripted were sent without choice. National service was later abolished in 1972 by Gough Whitlam's Labour, in response to public feeling about the Vietnam conflict.

These are comments from Australia's prime minister and opposition leader when Australia chose to engage in Vietnam:

“The Australian government is now in receipt of a request from the government of South Vietnam for further military assistance. We have decided, after close consultation with the government of the United States, to provide an infantry battalion for service in South Vietnam… The [communist] takeover of South Vietnam would be a direct military threat to Australia and all the countries of south and south-east Asia. It must be seen as a thrust by communist China between the Indian and Pacific Oceans.” - Robert Menzies, Australian prime minister, April 1965

“We do not think it [the deployment of Australian troops in Vietnam] a wise decision. We do not think it will help the fight against communism. We do not believe it will promote the welfare of the people of Vietnam.” - Arthur Calwell, Australian Labor Party leader, April 1965

“The Menzies government has made a reckless decision on Vietnam which this nation may live to regret. It has decided to send Australian soldiers into a savage, revolutionary war in which the Americans are grievously involved, so that America may shelve a tiny part of her embarrassment… It could be that our historians will recall this day with tears.” - The Australian newspaper, April 1965

The military sacrifices of the past can be honoured, at the same time as recognising the mistakes of the leadership which led to those sacrifices. It is not a contradiction to feel a deep sadness for those who suffered throughout and after those conflicts, and to be critical about the sheer waste of the exercise and its continuing repetition. Politicians and powerbrokers do not place themselves in harm's way when they launch rhetorical battle-cries; they are not the soldiers who will fight, nor are they the civilians who reside upon the battlegrounds. To those who would lament 'Theirs not to reason why, Theirs but to do and die': (Alfred, Lord Tennyson 1809-92): I say that you will know when you are fighting for your country, because you will be standing on it.

Remembrance does not need to be an acceptance that those sacrifices of the past were necessary, simply because they were made. Nor should it be an open criticism of those who served the will of others with honourable intent. Instead, it should force us to question not only the past, but the present, and make us consider our current choices and their motivations. Remembering helps us to recognise and engage with those we know and those whom we knew, who were marked by conflict, so that we might do better- for them and for the rest of us - lest we forget. 


Friday 15 April 2022

Fanua

Nafanua is a mythological Samoan warrior, a goddess born of a blood clot buried in the earth- her name translates literally as of the earth (fanua). In the legend she is triumphant in battle and her sex is only discovered when a breeze blows away her cloth to reveal her breasts, cowing the mean she had already defeated.

My great, great grandmother’s name was Fanua, and her life would tread the trail of her namesake Nafanua.

 Like her father of whom I have written, Seumanutafa, Fanua was adopted:

“Fanua’s father was Aisake Ainuu, a chief closely allied to the Malietoa family. He was one of the chiefs deported with King Malietoa Laupepa to Africa in the year 1887 by the Germans…when Fanua was a few years old she was adopted (after the Samoan custom of exchange by adoption of the children of chiefs) by Seumanutafa, chief of Apia in Upolu and from that time has been recognized as his daughter”  

The mention of Aisake Ainuu’s deportation is ironic and prescient- given that on December 21, 1926 Fanua would leave Samoa with her husband, Judge Edwin Gurr, deported from Samoa for five years, this time for supporting the Mau against NZ administration. I must admit to a rush of pride at the deportation of not one, but (at least) two forebears who displayed so openly- what my 10th grade English teacher would later describe as- “a problem with authority figures”.

Before then, in 1888 at the age of 16, Fanua was titled the Taupou of Apia.

Between 1887 and 1894 a complex bout of civil wars, centered in Apia, took place for leadership of Samoa and consolidation of the four major high chiefly titles with three contestants to the throne- each backed by the self-interested colonial powers of Germany, USA and Great Britain, with varying degrees of commitment to arbitrary destruction. (In fact there are and were five significant titles, but four titles were held amid the three prospects vying for rule).

Within this 7 year maelstrom- Seumanutafa fought on the side of the Malietoa (another title to which there were two claimants… I know, you could write a book about it- in fact, someone did, he’s coming up); anyway, Fanua enthusiastically engaged in the conflict, transporting supplies of food and weapons and attending the trenches, shelters and encampments littering the land around Apia; presenting a moving target amid the various battles, ambushes and raids; “she had on many occasions exhibited much coolness, presence of mind and bravery in danger and trouble.” In 1889 a natural event would stall the wars briefly, when a great hurricane destroyed 6 warships in Apia harbour and killed over 150 men. That storm would have killed many more if not for Samoan saviours including Fanua and her father. Fanua coordinated much of the recovery of the rescued soldiers and was presented a personal gift by Admiral Kimberly of the US Navy for her work.

In a later incident, toward the end of the wars, supporters of Mata'afa occupied the home of Fanua and Judge Gurr, because they advocated for the opposing claimant of the Malietoa title. The Judge possessed papers and items considered valuable to both sides. There were also a uniform and sword significant to the Malietoa. When these were unable to be recovered by other means, Fanua boldly approached the occupiers, led by Aliipia, and requested she be allowed to gather some of her things, including the Judge’s papers and typewriter. Aliipia graciously allowed her to, and Fanua then requested of the warriors there, “Will any of you young chiefs carry these things to town for me?” Only after the goods had been safely removed to the waterfront with the sword and uniform of the Malietoa secreted among them, and stowed in a boat waiting; did Fanua deign to tip-off her enemy-porters. “Do you know what you have brought down? You have carried the uniform and the sword of the Malietoa”. You can imagine the bunch of chagrinned warriors in their prime debating among themselves whether to run back up the hill to tell the boss the lady had duped them...

Fanua married Judge Gurr on December 31st, 1890. They had two children, their son Bernard and daughter, Teuila. The wedding was attended by anyone who was anyone- which at the time tended to include the available admiralty and occupiers, and renowned author and man-about-Vailima, Tusitala aka Robert Louis Stevenson... (if you want to know more about the civil wars- ‘A Footnote to History’ is RLS’s observational if biased interpretation as local papalagi fictional correspondent.) 

 As Judge Gurr recalled:

“Robert Louis Stevenson and Fanua Eleitino Gurr were great friends from the time of their first meeting till his death, and even unto the time of her death in December 1917 she frequently spoke most lovingly of Mr Stevenson and all the members of his talented family.”

“She was a frequent guest of Vailima. Sometimes for several months at a stretch Fanua and her husband were favored guests of the family and occupied Tusitala's Library.”

Stephenson’s mother, Mrs Margaret Stephenson gave Fanua lessons in English and RLS also chose the name of Fanua’s daughter, my great grandmother, Teuila. 

“I believe that Fanua played against Tusitala in his last game of tennis. I had arrived at Vailima from my office in Apia just before dusk of one of the days when we were stopping at Vailima. Tusitala had been playing rather more vigorously than usual in order to extinguish the 'Aitu.' The game was drawing to a close when Mr Stevenson was compelled to cease playing owing to a hemorrhage starting. Mrs Stevenson then insisted that he should not play tennis any more, and I believe this was his last game, a few months before his death.”

In referring to ‘extinguishing the Aitu’- Gurr was using a pet name that RLS and his family used for Fanua: “Fanua was also styled on many other occasions by Mr Stevenson as ' Le Aitu ' which designates a visitor from the spirit world.“  It seems an appropriate term- aitu- for a warrior, a witch, and a wonder. Not other worldly, but of this place, fanua or whenua. They meant it with love.

This blog is dedicated to my first cousin, goddess and warrior- Richelle Kahui-McConnell, who carried and shared the spirit of Nafanua and Fanua, all the way to the whenua

Amuia le masina, e alu ma toe sau... alofa tele.

https://www.rejectedprincesses.com/princesses/nafanua

https://samoanmythology.net/ts-nafanua-goddess-of-war/

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/SAMZ19180209.2.18?query=Regent

https://www.ebooksread.com/authors-eng/rosaline-orme-masson/i-can-remember-robert-louis-stevenson-hci/page-23-i-can-remember-robert-louis-stevenson-hci.shtml